The Central Collective

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Delights Of Dushanbe

900m, the highest point of Tajikistan’s bazaar infused capital, Dushanbe

Driving through Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan is quite frankly a magical experience. It begins with the seatbelt less taxi you hopped into on arrival, as you smear away the dusty mist from the rear window, you manage to peak out across vast nostalgic communist roads with a slice of Tajik design amid a staggering backdrop of powdered snowy peaks and deep blue skies. Chugging down the roads of Dushanbe is (for Asia) a rather relaxing experience (minus the taxi), with a population of under 800,000 the traffic is light, Dushanbe’s destination of choice, the bazaars. 

Dushanbe has always been a city of bazaars from its early days. With its name literally translating to Monday - market day in the village of Dushanbe. Since then the bazaars have opened up and you’re spoilt for choice, Korvon or caravan bazaar in the centre is bursting with colourful silk and cotton fabrics, intricately stitched slippers and an array of finely woven carpets picked up by traders along the Silk Road to this day. Meandering around Korvon is a pleasurable non-touristy experience with smiling tradesmen keen to show off their latest arrivals outlet for pleasure. 

After hailing your next Russian roadster ride you’ll be requesting a trip to Mehrgon Bazaar, on the outskirts of the city, be sure to expect a puzzled face from the driver as you speed over. Mehrgon Bazaar is the latest addition to Dushanbe and fits in better as a mall rather than a bazaar, the market itself replaces the bustling green bazaar which closed in 2018 and has confused locals with soaring prices. As you arrive at the steps of this rather out of place building you’re greeted with sleek lined marble walkways and official stalls lined with racks of spice, steaming bread and Tajik fruits. From here, you’ll soon realise you’re peckish, a superb spot to grab a loaf (or three) before the local workers rush in to sweep up the rest on their lunch break. 

Dushanbe is a truly fabulous city to explore the ancient way of shopping and a day set aside for this is certainly required before venturing into the Pamirs.